The following is a guide to help those looking for a B14. We have identified all the problems that we believe may occur to a B14 and its kit. However, most of the identified issues occur very rarely and on a class by class basis, the B14 has proven to be very strong and nearly all hulls remain competitive after 20 years of life (early ships). With evolution the class is still at the forefront of international race dinghy development. Therefore if buying an older boat, the kit may, though still good, may not be current. The following information should help you identify what you may be looking at/buying. 

Wings

In 2003, the class association introduced plumbing joints. There are also 5 sets of welded racks using the same specification tubing. The racks (£ 391.75) if upgraded should have inner wing plumbing joints and the front struts/sleeves upgraded. If still riveted wings, look for loose fitting and cracks emanating form the holes. Plumbing joints will rectify this problem. Also look for hairline cracks in the region of the securing pins and toe strap mountings. Dents to the underside of the wing struts may result in slight weakness. All retrofitting parts are available from Ovington boats (Plumbing joints £ 32.92, B14 wing leg £ 27.14, B14 wing leg sleave £ 19.42).

Rudder

Version One Alloy Stock Lifting Rudder: When looking at the rudder blade, check for cracks emanating from the locking pin hole (More than 60 mm. long) and pivoting bolt on the stock. If there are small hairline cracks, do not worry as these are probably due to flexing in the immediate area. Rudder stock, look for wear on the gudgeon holes (replacement gudgeon £ 12.42, rudder stock bottom block £ 21.22, rudder stock top block £ 18.05) and fracturing on the alloy frame. Very rare and if wear on the gudgeons, Ovington Boats will supply replacements at a cost.

Dagger Board

Very robust and even if the trailing edge has been badly bashed and has bits missing, some epoxy with microfibres will repair to point of making like new. If buying wooden foil, check for delamination, hairline cracks in the laminate and possible warping (all repairable).

Kite Pole

Check for splits at the aft end of the pole where it sits inside the hull when fully extended. If there are cracks the pole is fixable by either sheathing or removing damaged material and epoxying using microfibres and then sheathing inside and outside of the pole. Be careful to make sure that the diameter does not change more than about 1 mm. Inside the end of the pole (Rondar), there should be an alloy collar and on Ovington hulls a carbon outer collar. If missing the inner collar can be made from old wing material and if on an Ovington hull buy a new one from Ovington Boats and epoxy on.

Inner pole, check for corrosion at the securing eye and outer end ball race block. If required, replacement can be easily made at home or supplied by Ovington Boats (£ 61.83 (Make sure you use anodised material though if making yourself)).

Boom

The boom was upgraded in 2002. Booms older than 2002, look for hairline cracks around the eye for the kicker takeoff on the boom (on underside and new type on top). Also check the boom is not bent.

Mast

Check for kinks or fraying in the wires, blocks run freely and wear in the halyards.

Alloy

First check the mast is not bent. It should be dead straight or have a slight aft bend (20 mm.) when lying on the ground. Check for hairline cracks at the point where the alloy joins the glass top. At the lower spreader mounting, look for any compression on the mast wall. At the mast foot look for spreading of the mast wall, very rare but may occur. Masts supplied after 2000, have longer mast sleeves than pre 2000 masts.

Carbon

Adopted in 2005, these masts are virtually bullet proof. Check that the deck collar is not the 50 mm. high plastic one but the 100 mm. high carbon one. Check for any damage to the spreaders/brackets. To date, we have not noted any issues to look for when buying. Any breakage can be repaired (Chipstow Boats - Downham Essex).

Hull

Rondar

All Rondar hulls (638 – 657 epoxy/sandwich) are made of polyester resin/sandwich. The main modification carried out on the hull has been the reinforcing of the foredeck. This is due to the movement of the crew on the foredeck in light airs. If the foredeck has gone soft this may need attention. Experienced boat builders (Graham Eels, Peter Barnard, Brett Dingwell) can easily fix with little additional weight (£150 – 250).

Bow ring, check for hairline cracks. If any just get them welded up or Ovington Boats can supply a new one. They just slip off and on with a little gelcoat or epoxy.

Check the hull takes rig tension. Look at the tuning guide for the tensions (alloy and carbon different). There will be slight movement in the hull, but the hull should not loose tension once on. So once tensioned, leave for several minutes to see if a large change in the readings occurs (Only aware of the problem on a couple of hulls over the years and these are no longer in circulation).

Daggerboard case, look for impact damage. Any damage can be repaired but if more serious may require professional attention (Repairs should only run to approximately £200).

Shroud points. Check for any pulling on the hull. There should be large washers or alloy plate on the underside to spread the load.

Leaks are usually down to gaskets on the hatch covers or daggerboard case. Either are easily rectifiable.

Mast step look to see if loose or worn as alloy and stainless steel pins. If worn or loose, easy to repair but need to resecure using epoxy and microfibres. Check completely dry and over drill the screw holes, followed by redrilling the screw holes afterwards. Very easy to rectify taking less than 1 hour.  

Ovington

Not much yet to report here. Check the daggerboard case as above. General condition of hull should be good. All hulls are epoxy. Check for rig tension as above. If the trench cover buckles under tension, this is normal especially if the bolt at the front of the mast gate that secures the cover is in place.

Sails

Ian is away this PM so I will get his history next week but here is the brief geeks guide for the North designs as I remember it.

North UK

Work started in late 1997/early 1998 in the run up to the Weymouth Worlds later that year. The loft got the Aussie North moulds and started from there. The panel layout was cross cut in the top with bi-radial foot for the jib, same for the mainsail but with radial head as well, battens in cross cut seams. Codes - main DPM-1, jib DPJ-1 after Dick Parker (remember him) who came from the Aussie loft.

The loft went through a few kite developments but believe only sold the one version TC-8.

After the Worlds the loft altered the panel layout and cloth, similar to the current 49er sails to showing the 'skiff' pedigree of the design. The loft now started using the Cobra cloth. Most sails had blue trim, but there was a colour option for those with sponsors. Some small tweaking with the main design to get a similar flying shape due to the panel change. Jib entry made flatter to help pointing. Codes DPM-5 and DPJ-4.

Pre Garda Worlds 2001 the loft altered panel layout to full radial for both sails and deepened the base of the main for more power and flattened jib again as it was too deep when the forestay sagged up the wind range. codes LGM-1, LGJ-1 (Lake Garda Main/Jib, -1 for 2001).

Dave Dobrijevic came up with the 'Whomper' kite LGA-1. Max leech and foot length gave the biggest possible sail but with area in the wrong place. Very hard to gybe (great training sail as it forced you to improve technique). It will possibly dump you if you do not get the gybe right (Latest kites much more friendly) and in very light airs may be a problem to set due to extra length of foot.

In 2004 when Ian Simkin joined North Sails, the loft offered both ranges of sails with most guys using his Kite (SS-04, Simkins Spin-2004) there is a kind of logic to the sail codes.

In 2005 we changed panel layout in the mainsail so you can see through the windows and gave it a slightly bigger roach after request from Mark Barnes prior to Sydney Worlds. Jib stayed the same (LMG-05, LJG-02).

In 2007 we progressed the LMG-05 to the LMG-06 by increasing the roach to near maximum and adding slightly more luff curve to make the rig more forgiving. Camber of sail is near similar to the LMG-05.

The mainsails now offered are LMG-01, LMG-05, LMG-06, jib LJG-02 and option on kite shape but primarily SS-04 also known as SM-04 or TC-8 of which only a handful are in circulation.

Ullman UK

Prior to 2001, the mainsails were gold coloured. In 2001 the loft developed the Smoke Grey radial cut main with larger roach. This sail configuration went on to win the next 2 World championships. In 2003 Ian Simkin gave up the Ullman franchise and joined North UK One design.

Other Lofts to follow when we have the detail. 

Extras

In addition to the above the following extras will affect the price of the boats on offer:

• Carbon Tiller extensions - Ranging from thin lightweight tubes to bombproof carbon/carbon kevlar (Weight and strength advantages) Up to £100 each new
• Jib Ratchets - Now common across many circuit boats - Easy retrofit
• Mesh style Wing Trampolines - Standard older generation trampolines are grey material. Newer trampolines are variations on a mesh theme (less water and wind resistance) - Cost new approx £200 each

As with all boats check the condition of running riggging, trailers, covers etc (it all adds up!)